nyc: day three.

Another neighborhood we wanted to explore was Chelsea, so we set out for the subway first thing Wednesday morning, our last full day in the city. I should say here that by this time I was done lugging my heavy camera around the city, so photos from today are a little more sparse.

Once we arrived in the neighborhood, we found coffee and a chocolate croissant at this amazing little Italian coffee shop where the man behind the counter greeted customers by name. There’s no carafe of half and half in the shop, no way. If you want milk for your coffee, it’s served in a tiny ceramic jug. I adored it.

 

Chelsea.

 

We found Chelsea Market and the staircase across the street to the High Line. It’s a mile-and-a-half elevated walking path, made from an old railroad line. We didn’t expect it to be so beautifully landscaped, and loved it immediately.

At 9:00 am it was still very quiet and peaceful on the High Line (this would not last long). We sat on wooden reclined benches with our coffee and breakfast. There’s a little fountain on the ground at this part of the walkway and we enjoyed watching the delight on kids’ faces when they discovered it.

 

 

 

 

Okay, here’s what we would’ve done if we’d had another day in New York — or known ahead of time.

We’d leave our hotel even earlier, say 7:00 am, in work-out clothes. We’d get to Chelsea and either walk or run the High Line in the quiet, cool of the morning. Then we’d find breakfast and sit and soak it in.

Ahhh, maybe one day. This was my favorite part of the city we spent time in.

 

 

Across the street is Chelsea Market, a warehouse converted into the most amazing market with upscale shops and all kinds of food and drink vendors. It was dark and cool and meandering, with cobblestone floors. Very hip.

We found mid-morning snacks, and I decided to try my first matcha latte. There was an entire shop devoted to nothing but various matcha beverages. You guys. I wanted so badly to be cool and like it, but no, matcha is not for me. I thought it tasted exactly like grass. With steamed milk. I do believe everyone that it’s a hundred times better for you than coffee. I tried to finish the drink since I paid about 6 bucks for it, but just.couldn’t.

 

 

Back up to the High Line, which was getting very crowded by this time.

David wanted to walk the whole thing, but I parked myself right here, at this little amphitheater with a view of the neighborhood. It was breezy and pleasant in the shade, and I sat for an hour and read Johnny Tremain. I was a very happy girl.

After this, we had time to head back into the market to grab lunch at Los Tacos, a Mexican place our friends recommended. They mix and grill the corn tortillas right in front of you at the counter, and there’s no seating, so you roam the market until you find a free counter to stand and eat. The tacos were only $3 each, and hands down the best I’ve ever tasted.

It was time to trek back to the hotel to get ready for Hamilton!

 

Hamilton.

 

So I’m going to talk about Hamilton, which was, of course, the jewel of our New York experience.

I was very familiar with the soundtrack and enjoyed it, but wouldn’t say I loved it back then. That’s David. He loves the history, the characters, the 90’s rap influences. Don’t get me wrong: I was thrilled to be seeing the show, but (I can’t believe I’m admitting this), a bit skeptical of all the hype and wondered if I might feel a little bored in the three-hour show.

This opinion was bolstered by the near-hysteria of excitement in the women’s bathroom beforehand. One college-age girl was literally weeping, saying, “I can’t believe I’m here. I just can’t believe I’m here.”

 

 

However.

I ate every one of my skeptical words. From the opening song, I was as transfixed as any other theater-goer there.

I can hardly describe it. Being there, seeing the performance live, was unlike anything I’ve ever experienced (and I thought nothing could ever top seeing Phantom of the Opera in London’s West End).

It was everything: the talent was extraordinary. None of the original cast is still performing on Broadway, but I was blown away by the performances. We loved the all-minority cast. The live orchestra.

Lin Manuel-Miranda is a genius. He made this part of our nation’s history come alive. His characters are complex, history is spot-on accurate, and the dialogue profound and nuanced. And all the while, you’re laughing and cheering with everyone else. The music was incredible. I mean, with the exception of a 15-minute intermission, the actors and actresses rapped and sang for a solid three hours straight.

I love that Miranda made a stand for right and wrong in his portrayal of the story. I appreciated the way he showed, so honestly, through Alexander Hamilton’s life, that being a popular, successful leader isn’t enough. How you treat people matters. The small choices you make every day matter. Your actions and words have consequences; they affect people: especially the people closest to you. Alexander Hamilton worked too much, was obsessed with success, and it hurt his family. He had an affair, and during the scene with his wife when she finds out, I don’t think there was a dry eye in the theater.

It is a hard, inspiring, redemptive story. And it all really happened. I think that was the most powerful thing about it.

I didn’t want the show to end, and when it was over I told David, “If I could sit right here and start back at the beginning, I would.”

We feel so incredibly grateful for the gift of that experience, in this season of our lives. Especially getting to see it right there, in New York, where it took place. We will never forget it.

 

 

So … we realized later that if you’re planning to see Hamilton on Broadway, you need a plan — an exit strategy, if you will. We stumbled out into the blazing 5:00 sun, and were instantly swept up in the crowd of Broadway and Times Square. It was completely jarring and disorienting. What we wanted to do was find a quiet place to sit with a drink and process it all together, but had no idea where to begin. So instead we consulted David’s trusty itinerary, boarded a subway, and went straight to Chinatown, where we’d planned to find dinner.

We had another chance to sit for awhile, because Chinatown is right next to Little Italy, which boasts dozens of charming cafes with sidewalk tables. But I don’t think we even knew Little Italy was right there. Instead we just started wandering aimlessly.

Ha! I think we were tired. Navigating NYC is not for the faint of heart.

 

Chinatown.

 

 

 

Chinatown is still so much fun.

I took a trip to New York with David’s sister, mom, aunts, and cousin in 2008, and remember this neighborhood being my favorite part. I was introduced to the magic that is dim sum, and I loved the sights and shops and culture there.

 

 

 

 

Our single aim for dinner was pork buns, and we found delicious ones for 99 cents in a tiny hole-in-the-wall shop.

 

 

 

We finally took a rest on a park bench, and watched a few rousing games of handball. Seeing the diversity of friendships there across races, among both children and adults — Hispanic, Asian, African American — was refreshing and hopeful.

 

 

 

 

 

Little Italy.

 

Our last stop of the evening before heading to bed was gelato. Of course.

 

 

Thursday.

 

 

We had time for one last, lovely breakfast in Bryant Park on Thursday morning before catching our flight. We ate true New York bagels. And I tried my New Orleans iced coffee from Blue Bottle! It was worth going back for.

This was a lovely trip. We’ll be reliving these memories for a long, long time.

Thanks to all of you for being excited with us, for giving great recommendations, for helping with our kids, and just generally making the whole experience more fun by asking lots of questions.