day 9: the grand canyon of the yellowstone, hayden valley.

Day 9 was nice because it involved just a 10 minute drive from our lodge to the trailhead.

We overheard a park ranger tell someone that Yellowstone is having a record-breaking summer, with a projected 5 million visitors. So here’s a word on how we navigate the hoards of people:

We wake up at 5 or 6 am, depending on how far we need to drive, and are on the trail by 6 or 7. It is cold (like 45 degrees), but no crowds and it’s easy to find a parking spot (our main concern!). Also, there are generally other people on the hikes, but not many. Apparently 80 percent of visitors to Yellowstone don’t venture more than a 10-minute walk from their vehicle.

 

The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

On this day, we hiked about 8 miles around both rims of what’s called “The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone,” (meaning the Yellowstone River). We marveled at the majestic Upper and Lower Falls.

Such different views from the hot springs of the day before. How could one place contain such diversity?

 

 

 

 

 

 

It’s a low point to hear that early alarm after a busy day and a fitful night of sleep in a hotel, but once we get out on the trail, we all become happy and free. Gabe: “I’d rather be on this road trip than go to Disney World.”

 

 

There’s a shot of the “real” Yellowstone. Every lookout we hiked to was full of people because there are parking lots at each spot. But have no fear, friends! It’s wholly worth it, even with July crowds. We’d do it again in a heartbeat.

 

 

Yes, we bribe our children to hike with chocolate. I got a huge pack of assorted candy bars from Costco before the trip, and they’re reserved for hikes that exceed 4 miles. The kids get to choose their candy bar before we set out, and that midpoint chocolate break is always a high point of the day (you guessed it, for me too).

 

 

Noah is doing such a great job. It’s very difficult for Gabe and him to stick to the trails, which is commanded on signs everywhere — because of dangerous drops, wildlife, and to protect the park. The boys need multiple warnings on every hike to remember this! And they weary of it. But they rarely complain, and have kept up with the long legs of us older four amazingly well. And Noah stills manages to find bugs wherever we go, which is his love language. The past couple of days he’s said to me, “Mom, can I take a break from hiking and just look for bugs?”

It’s fascinating to log so many hours together and note everyone’s preferred way of recharging — especially when we can’t really do it and become crabby. Here’s the rundown in summer, 2021. I wonder if it will change at all as the kids grow up?

David: more adventures

Jules: read a book, preferably all alone

Judah: work on his novel, listen to music on my phone, go for a run

Amelie: draw, watercolor, knit

Gabe: play games or do a puzzle

Noah: be free to roam and find bugs

 

Down time

Because we stayed two nights at the Canyon Lodge, we got to return to the room after our hike and crash. For the first time in a week! Some of us showered and then we set the boys up with a favorite audiobook, The Vanderbeekers of 141st Street, and David, Judah, Amie, and I fell into bed for an hour and a half nap.

It was glorious.

 

 

Mid-afternoon, we took a walk in the Canyon Village. Here’s what I love about Yellowstone. You will find a random bison in the unlikeliest of places, like nestled against the hotel wall.

 

 

We chose favorite drinks in the General Store, then found a spot to relax for an hour.

 

 

 

It’s amazing how on a road trip, things we take for granted become gifts: a nap, sitting on a sidewalk bench and resting, sleeping in.

I just finished an incredible book, called The Warmth of Other Suns: The Epic Story of America’s Great Migration. David read it a couple of months ago and told me I’d love it. He was right; it’s my favorite book of 2021 thus far. It’s a nonfiction account, meticulously researched of the almost 6 million of African Americans who fled the oppression of the South in the early to mid 1900’s to find a better life in the North.

My favorite books are nonfiction books that read like fiction. Isabel Wilkerson follows the story of three people in particular, and I became immersed in their stories. The book is heart-breaking and eye-opening. Like, life was not always better in the north or west for many people, as racism still abounded. I think the most important lesson for us white, middle-class Americans is this: not all Americans experience this country the way we do. It makes me want to continue my journey of seeing life from all different perspectives, and growing in wisdom and compassion.

 

 

Mud Volcano

Refreshed and re-energized at around 5:00, we got in the van to drive through spectacular Hayden Valley. We saw multiple people pulled over on the roadside and set up in camp chairs, just drinking in the view.

 

 

 

Before 9:00 am or after 5:00 are definitely the best times to be out and about in the park. It’s much cooler, the crowds have thinned, and there is more wildlife.

 

 

Mud Volcano is another thermal area of steaming, roiling pools. The mud pools are just what you’d expect: steaming, roiling pools of mud. We also got up close and personal with another bison. And laughed as we saw several milling around the thermal pools. All the space and beauty of the park, and they want to be right here?

 

 

And that’s a wrap for Day 9. We headed back to the village and ate dinner at one of the restaurants. All the food is still carry-out only due to COVID, so we found a picnic table. It was amazing to eat a full, hot meal. Pot roast, smashed potatoes, and garlic and lemon green beans. They were delicious.

Then it was showers and lights out at 9:00 pm to rest up for another day!