day 4: estes park, rocky mt. national park.

Although David and I have talked for years about one day making a big trip west, our dream crystallized when we learned that every fourth grader in the U.S. gets a national park pass for the year, enabling them and their family to get into all the national parks for free. This seemed like motivation enough for us.

I told David that Noah needed to be five before we could make a trip like this, and lo and behold, his fifth year of life has coincided with Amelie’s fourth grade year of school.

Our swim team friends were all real-deal travelers — I mean, regularly making huge road trips with young kids like it’s no big deal — and so I began to pick their brains for ideas over a year ago. They became my inspiration. If they can do it, we can do it. When one of them heard that we were hoping to drive out to the Grand Canyon, she said, “Then you absolutely have to drive to Rocky Mountain National Park on your way, it’s incredible.”

And so our travel itinerary began to take shape.

The first draft of our plans included the possibility of renting an RV for the journey, but after price checking, it ended up costing more, and we discovered that you have to book your spot in the national parks quite early. We also heard from friends that you really want more of a camper-style, with a detached vehicle you can take further up into the parks where RV’s aren’t allowed. Since our van can’t pull a camper, this ruled it out for us.

The YMCA of the Rockies in Estes Park, Colorado is a great, affordable place to stay — and also very popular. Registration for the fall opened on April 4, and when David jumped on the website first thing in the morning to get us a cabin, he was 600th in line! He left his laptop open all day, and miraculously, we were able to book a two-bedroom cabin.

That was the moment the trip became real.

 

YMCA, Estes Park, Colorado

 

 

 

 

 

The town of Estes Park is nestled in the Rocky Mountains at an elevation of 7,500 feet, and we can definitely feel it. We’re drinking lots and lots of water (which means that someone has to pee at all times), and all have the sniffles and chapped skin. The higher altitude is a pressing-in on your chest and a shortness of breath, like the first faint tremor of a panic attack, only without the panic.

Our cabin is small but perfect, just what we need. We aren’t sleeping all that great here (perhaps due to the mountain time zone and the above altitude adjustments), but the days are so wonderful that no one minds much. We love throwing open the windows to the cool mountain breeze. It’s hot in the sun, but always pleasant in the shade; we wear sweats and a fleece first thing in the morning and shorts and t’shirts during the day.

But you know what our very favorite thing is about staying here?

Waking up to this:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Elk roam everywhere, from the YMCA to the little town of Estes, to the national park, like they own the place.

We’ve seen dozens by this point, and thus far it hasn’t gotten old.

 

Sprague Lake, Rocky Mt. National Park

 

 

We woke up Thursday morning and drove into the park at about 10:00, stopping on the way for a sack of donuts from the Donut Haus. David’s trip itinerary basically includes a main event, sometimes two short events, for each day. We wanted to get a lay of the land in the park right away.

In mid-September, I’d say that the park is full, but not packed. We waited in line just a bit for our park pass and a map, then made our way to the Sprague Lake trail head to eat our donuts. Apple fritters, raspberry twists with jam inside, and turtle twists … they were some of the best donuts we’ve tasted.

It’s still technically peak tourist season, but I’m guessing there are lots less people around now that school has started. We see a few families here and there, but not many. In the park and on the trails, everyone is so friendly and encouraging to our crew. I’m learning that if there’s one thing serious hikers like, it’s seeing kids out hiking.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sprague Lake is a short hike, and we got to see the glacier on distant Hallett Peak, which is part of the Continental Divide. We brought a picnic lunch, but it was windy, so we just walked and drank in the sights of evergreens and mountains and glittering water.

 

 

 

 

 

It was nice to get a feel for the layout of the park, and pick up the kids’ Junior Ranger booklets from one of the visitor centers. The parking lots and trails get fairly crowded midday, so we were advised by the park rangers to come first thing in the morning, or around 3:00pm.

We decided to head back to the cabin for lunch and a rest, and then return later on for another hike.

On our way out, we had to stop and pull over to take in this stunning view.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Alberta Falls, Rocky Mt. National Park

 

 

 

The Alberta Falls trail is higher up into the park, where the coniferous forest meets the deciduous forest, and it was greener and even more beautiful. The first brush of fall is sweeping across the aspen trees and setting them ablaze. Arriving from South Carolina, where the leaves don’t even consider turning ’til mid-October, we were startled and thrilled by the sight.

The moment we began on this trail was the moment I thought, I love it here.

There were no aggressive elk to be seen, much to everyone’s disappointment.